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By TOM MEADE Like all other fermented foods - including beer, wine, and cheese - you're working with the original fresh liquid and microorganisms that do the work of fermentation. Fresh, raw milk from a single animal can vary tremendously from breed to breed, from season to season, and from pasture to pasture, depending on what the animal is eating, says Ricki Carroll, founder of New England Cheesemaking Supply and author of the book, Home Cheese Making. The book is the text for the basic cheese-making school Carroll operates in her huge kitchen in Ashfield, Mass. To produce consistent fermented dairy products, it's critical to use clean and well rinsed equipment, and ingredients from known sources, she teaches her students. Be scrupulous about watching the thermometer and the clock.
Buying one brand of organic milk from the grocery store produces yogurt that is consistent from batch to batch. Fat-free milk works well. Raw milk also works as long as the animal from which it came is free of antibiotics. To make thicker yogurt, add one-quarter cup of powdered milk to the liquid milk you use. You can buy starter bacteria from a cheese supplier or use three tablespoons of organic yogurt with live cultures. Widely available, Stonyfield Farm organic yogurt contains six species of bacteria; other brands of organic yogurt are also available regionally. Greek yogurt is available in many store; it isn't as sour as many American yogurts. Two pieces of special equipment are necessary: a dairy thermometer which costs about $10, and an incubator or "yogurt maker." Non-electric yogurt makers, essentially insulated buckets, cost from $35 to $48. Electric yogurt makers start at $15, and one popular model, the Salton YM9 one-quart, occasionally is on sale at Amazon.com for $10. The process is easy:
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